March 4, 2012

The Big Smoke

London lived up to its old name, The Big Smoke, when I arrived late after circling several times due to the fog.  After checking in to the hotel, and sorting out some “housekeeping” things, I started out the explore the neighbourhood.  I selected the area because it was close to several markets, including Spitalfields, Brick Lane and Petticoat Lane. Although Sunday is Spitalfields’ biggest day, things were hopping when I arrived on Friday afternoon. Most of the stalls that were open were individual artists and craftsmen. This gent from the Scottish highlands made funny little critters from old tweeds. As I watched, he sat and cut and sewed more characters.

There were hatmakers,

dressmakers,

kiltmakers, although with a twist, along with butchers, bakers and possibly, candlestick-makers.

With the stall-holders in the center, there are permanent shops around the perimeter of the market. I found some great architectural antiques, and industrial salvage shops there.

Across from the market is the Christ Church Spitalfields, which has just undergone a massive renovation after being in disrepair for a number of years. The building was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor, who worked with the great architect Sir Christopher Wren. Hawksmoor also designed Castle Howard and Blenheim Palace.The last congregation left the church in the late 1950’s and the church was left to ruin, although a few hardy souls worked at keeping it from demolition. Beginning in the 1990’s, a long period of restoration was started, first strengthening the infrastructure and then restoring the details. In 2004, the church reopened and its congregation returned.

My friend, the Man of Mode, gave me a heads up on a street adjacent to the church which was filled with original Georgian houses. The Huguenots lived in these houses and were renowned as silk weavers, hence the large windows. But for a long time, these houses were considered slums, but recently, they’re selling for millions of pounds.Of course, I could hardly resist taking pictures of the gorgeous doors with their fabulous colours.
And peeking inside a few windows where the bottom sashes weren’t shuttered.

After lots of walking around on my bum knee, and getting no sleep on the flight due to a howling baby, I had an early night and rested up for my next day’s adventures. Stay tuned!

17 comments:

  1. Hope you feel better soon. Maybe some champagne and a good night's rest will do the trick. The photos are fab, thank you.

    If there are to be any howling babies, it should be Connor.

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  2. Ooh, have a fabulous time in London, you lucky lady, you! Thanks for sharing these pictures. I feel like I'm right there with you, except without the jet lag and aching knee. ;-) The church restoration is lovely, and especially nice that it's in use again.

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  3. Love reading this post, mainly because my best friend whom I had dinner with several nights ago, happens to live at #21 Fournier Street. I'd seen pics of the dwelling undergoing renovation for the last 10 years, but hadn't seen the street. Do pace yourself & have a grand time!

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  4. I trust you obtained a copy of Spitalfields Life so you can give us a complete review when you return home! I, for one, will be interested.

    Have a great time!

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  5. I'm so glad I was able to click on the food photo to read all the little signs. Shortbread with Belgian chocolate and nuts would have kept me from seeing anything else that day. Thank you sharing. The doors are lovely.

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  6. I am taking notes, Meg. We are headed to London in May! Can't wait. Have fun!!

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  7. Oh no, a bum knee! Guess what, I have 2 bum knees, worn down to the bones from too much skiing in my youth, damp British weather and a fat arse! I'm hoping you don't want to walk too far when we meet :-). Maybe some sofa walking. Have you ever been to the Cameo Club? Can't wait to meet.
    Di
    X

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  8. Oh thank you for sharing this fab trip with us stay at homes!

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  9. Wonderful array of sights--thanks for sharing them. I'm taking notes...

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  10. this is a great review of London-I'm heading there soon and have been making a list of places to see from your blog posts.

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  11. Sorry to correct you, but Vanbrugh designed Castle Howard and Blenheim. Not Hawksmore.

    JM

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  12. Good morning!!! your trip is off to a wonderful beginning, howling infant not withstanding! That church is GORGEOUS! and I am intrigued by that book...do share info on it's contents..is the photography good? Can't wait to hear more about each day's meanderings!!! Take care of that knee, my dear!

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  13. Oh Meg I am dreaming of London. I may have purchased a couple of hats( easy to get home)

    Love the painted doorways! Now I want to read the Spitalfields Life!

    Xoxo
    Karena
    Art by Karena

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  14. Ahhh the UK-great images. Keep them coming + have a wonderful time. xxpeggybraswelldesign.com

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  15. JDM... i was just quoting from the information about Hawksmoor that was in the church!

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  16. Hmmmmm--I think that Tish had the best idea: champagne!! ADvil works, too. Thanks for the super photos. Have a blast!! Mary

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  17. Great pics of a fascinating part of Ldn. I look forward to exploring.I would love you to take an exploratory trip to my new blog,just for a very quick peek....please!

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