You may know the name of Portmeirion from their iconic china patterns – the botanic prints surrounded by herb leaves. But there’s another side to the business, which you might know from the 1960’s BBC cult classic, The Prisoner. Amazingly, it’s a small Italian-style village nestled into the sea-front in North Wales. I’d heard about this place when I lived in Wales, but never had the opportunity to visit. I decided to make the trip north, and at the suggestion of friends, I booked in for dinner, an overnight stay and then breakfast on site.
While most of the local architecture of Wales is stone and slate, the buildings in Portmeirion are pastel wedding cakes! Originally constructed in the 1920’s in the Arts & Crafts style, the village evolved after WWII and until the 1970’s in more of a Palladian style, one of my favourites! The architect was Clough Williams-Ellis, who had conceived the village as a whole and executed the plans he been devising for years.
The village is unoccupied, but guests can stay in the flats and villas. There’s also a sea-front hotel, and some shops and cafes, and the village also owns a castle up the road. From staying under a huge domed building overlooking the village to the campanile overlooking the sea, each lodging is unique.
I stayed in a flat above a bridge, and one side looked seaward, and the other toward the village. This was my entrance, with my little rental car.My rooms were the three windows above the arch.
The village is ornamented in every conceivable way. Urns, statuary, gilding, festooning, gardooning and much more adorn every building. And the colours, especially the signature turquoise, are gorgeous.
While no one actually lives in the village, it was abuzz with the sounds of workmen preparing it for the main tourist season and everything was glistening with a fresh coat of paint!
I had such fun wandering around the village, marvelling at the myriad details and admiring the thought and care that went into building this special place. Everywhere I turned, I found something that captured my attention.
I am so glad I made the drive, about 150+ miles, to visit and spend time there. It was truly magical, and I can’t recommend it enough!
For more information on Portmeirion, please click here. And I will just leave you with the words of the founder, which resonated with me.
This was on the personal welcome letter I received upon my arrival.
I have read about this for years! You are the first I have "known" (only virtually) who has visited! It seems so wonderful!
ReplyDeleteWhy is it uninhabited? And how on earth did you find a way to stay there? My goodness! What a fascinating tale!!
It is an unoccupied village that was the dream of the founder? Yikes! No one lives there?
What a story!!!
It's sort of like a private hotel... open to the public to visit and view the gardens, but the staff all live in the surrounding villages.
DeleteI have never been but your pics piqued my interest on IG. Even in the grey sky the place still looks lovely! I'm now thinking of making a trip this year. Hope you rested up now and no jet lag xx
ReplyDeleteIt's a gorgeous drive up there. Friends from London went and recommended it to me. So glad I made the effort.
DeleteI love your blog, I learn something new and travel to places vicariously through you, thanks!
ReplyDeleteFascinating post. I remember the wonderful series "The Prisoner" starring Patrick McGoohan (I think). Don't know if it was shot in black and white or that we did not own a color t.v. I can't decide if the mood and strangeness of the show was better suited to black and white.
ReplyDeleteEarly 1960's, so probably in black & white.
Deletehow does this village relate to the china? i am enamoured with it and have a ton. it makes such a beautiful table setting. thank you for the info on the village -- just beautiful! you must have had such a wonderful time as it appears to be a major treat for anyone who is visual.
ReplyDeleteClough Williams-Ellis's daughter owns the china company, both of which have the same name.
DeleteCan't decide if I love or hate this place - it looks so very odd! Perhaps on a bright sunny day the colors wouldn't look so incongruous. Definitely love the fact that Clough William-Ellis was able to bring his vision to fruition though. Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteIt is odd, but like many unique things, it was one man's personal quest to build it. It brings a lot of tourism to the area. I almost liked it better in the overcast Welsh weather because of the contrast the buildings made.
DeleteOh my gosh so FUN!!!!
ReplyDeleteIt really was fun! I am glad that I made the effort to visit.
DeleteI remember The Prisoner! And admire the china. Always a pleasure to travel vicariously with you!
ReplyDeleteFunny conjunction of disparate things!
DeleteSo lovely Meg. Love the colors and architecture, unique and fun!
ReplyDeletexoxo
Karena
The Arts by Karena
My brother and sister-in-law have every piece made by the company and it's great fun to have dinner with them! Your trip was outstanding and one that I would definitely enjoy -- especially when Baltimore is having snow storms followed by rain, etc.
ReplyDeleteSo glad you had a great time and delighted you're home safe.
Rosemary