September 11, 2013

An Island Out of Time

At the widest part of the Chesapeake Bay, right along the Maryland/Virginia line, 12 miles off shore, lies a small archipelago. It’s called Smith Island, named after the first English explorer of the Chesapeake, Captain James Smith. imageIt’s only accessible by a small ferry, twice a day, and if you miss the last boat, you’re done for. The island only lies at sea level, and is susceptible to all sorts of weather phenomenon like hurricanes, ice and drought.

It’s a beautiful place, filled with some of the most amazing birdlife in the region.image It’s also a hard place and a hard life for the dwindling group of residents who live there. Most are watermen, meaning they crab, fish and oyster for a living. They still speak a variation of Cornish English and have a very distinctive accent. imageEverything has to be brought over to the island by boat, and generally once a thing arrives, it never leaves. imageBut it’s a place that has always enchanted those who visit there, as I have done on numerous occasions.

The island has two main industries – the aforementioned seafood industry, and Smith Island Cakes, imagea multi-layered confection smothered with chocolate.image

I recently stumbled across these evocative images, all taken by Jim Lo Scalzo of the US Environmental Protection Agency, via The Guardian.

imageIt’s truly an island out of time, and I am lucky to have spent time there before it disappears.

15 comments:

  1. Beautiful Meg! Did you have the cake!?

    xoxo
    Karena
    2013 Artist Series

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    1. I even MADE the cake! Click the link that says Smith Island Cakes, and you'll see my adventures in making one of these cakes.

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  2. Hello Meg, These are magical photos. I'm surprised the island hasn't been taken over by vacationers, although perhaps this is coming next. The cake looks like a giant form of coconut bar, if they have those in your part of the country.

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    1. There are a couple of reasons why: It's very difficult to get to, three or more hours from Baltimore, Washington DC or Philadelphia; only two small ferries each day; not much housing stock, and an almost total inability to build because of environmental reasons; the vulnerability of the island to weather (average elevation above sea level: 0); and the fact that booze isn't sold on the island!

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  3. this makes me realize i just have so many places to visit...

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  4. That picture of the house is great.

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  5. The photos make me want to go visit. Lovely post!

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  6. Wow - it has the same feel that the movie "Mystic Pizza" always gives me. I'm headed to Mystic soon, can't wait to be on the ferry again!

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    1. This is a very remote, very small place. Population: >400

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  7. let us hope it does not vanish soon + love the photos + the cake looks divine. xxpeggybraswelldesign.com

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  8. Thank you for introducing me to such a lovely place! It is now on my to do list!

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  9. Hi Meg, Thanks for this beautifully nostalgic post. Ways of life are changing. I had no idea that there were still English dialects spoken here--although I imagine Appalachia also speaks an "olde" form of English.
    Have a great week-end. xoxoxoxox
    Mary

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